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MoCRA: Transforming Cosmetic Safety and Regulation in the United States

Introduction to MoCRA

The Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA), enacted in 2022, marks a significant shift in the regulation of cosmetics in the United States. This act aims to enhance consumer safety, promote industry accountability, and foster transparency within the cosmetic sector. Prior to MoCRA, the cosmetic industry operated under a regulatory framework established in 1938, which provided minimal oversight and left consumers vulnerable to potential health risks. MoCRA addresses these gaps by introducing comprehensive regulatory mechanisms, ensuring that cosmetic products meet stringent safety standards.

The Imperative for Regulatory Reform

The cosmetic industry has long been a subject of regulatory scrutiny due to its minimal oversight. The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act provided only basic guidance, leaving manufacturers with little accountability and consumers exposed to potential health risks. MoCRA emerges as a response to this longstanding regulatory gap, driven by several factors:

  • Consumer Health Consciousness: Increased awareness of personal care product safety has led to demands for more robust regulatory frameworks.
  • Technological Advancements: Rapid developments in cosmetic formulation have outpaced existing regulations, necessitating a more modern approach.
  • Health Impact Research: Emerging studies highlighting potential risks from cosmetic ingredients have underscored the need for enhanced safety measures.
  • Demand for Transparency: Consumers are seeking greater transparency in product composition, driving the need for regulatory reform.

Comprehensive Regulatory Framework

MoCRA introduces a comprehensive regulatory framework that covers a broad spectrum of cosmetic products, including makeup, skincare, hair care, fragrances, body care, and nail products. Here’s how it works:

Facility and Product Registration

MoCRA mandates facility registration and product listing to ensure compliance with the new regulatory standards. This process involves:

  • Mandatory Registration: All facilities involved in the manufacturing, packing, or holding of cosmetic products must register with the FDA. This registration ensures that the FDA has accurate information about the facilities producing cosmetics.
  • Comprehensive Documentation: Detailed information about the facility, including manufacturing processes, quality control measures, and key personnel, must be submitted. This documentation provides the FDA with insights into the production environment and potential risks.
  • Annual Updates: Manufacturers are required to update their registration annually, ensuring that the FDA has current and accurate information. This ongoing process helps maintain compliance and accountability.
  • Compliance Verification: The FDA can conduct inspections to verify compliance with registration requirements. These inspections ensure that manufacturers adhere to the safety standards set by MoCRA.

Safety Substantiation

Safety substantiation is a critical component of MoCRA, ensuring that cosmetic products are safe for consumer use. This includes:

  • Ingredient Safety Assessment: All ingredients must undergo scientific evaluation to assess potential health risks. This rigorous process involves reviewing toxicological data, exposure assessments, and potential long-term effects.
  • Adverse Event Reporting: Manufacturers must report serious adverse events to the FDA, enabling rapid response to potential health risks. This reporting system helps identify and address safety concerns promptly.
  • Health Impact Assessments: Proactive evaluation of the potential long-term health impacts of cosmetic ingredients. This forward-looking approach aims to prevent future health issues by identifying and mitigating risks early.

Enforcement and Compliance

MoCRA significantly enhances the FDA’s regulatory capabilities, providing:

  • Mandatory Product Recall: The FDA can now mandate product recalls, protecting consumers from potentially harmful products. This power ensures that unsafe products are swiftly removed from the market.
  • Unannounced Inspections: The FDA can conduct unannounced inspections of manufacturing facilities to ensure compliance. This proactive approach helps maintain high safety standards across the industry.
  • Substantial Financial Penalties: Non-compliance can result in significant fines, incentivizing adherence to MoCRA’s provisions. These penalties serve as a deterrent against violations.
  • Suspension of Manufacturing Licenses: The FDA has the authority to suspend manufacturing licenses for repeated or severe violations. This measure ensures that non-compliant manufacturers are held accountable.

Implementation Challenges

Implementing MoCRA presents several challenges for the industry:

  • Organizational Adaptation: Large corporations must develop comprehensive compliance frameworks, while small and medium enterprises face significant restructuring challenges to meet the new regulatory requirements.
  • Investment in Safety Testing: Substantial investments in safety testing infrastructure are required. This includes advanced toxicological screening and AI-powered safety assessment tools.
  • Advanced Tracking Systems: Development of advanced tracking and documentation systems to meet MoCRA’s stringent requirements. These systems ensure transparency and traceability throughout the supply chain.

Exemption Landscape

While MoCRA covers a wide range of cosmetic products, certain exemptions exist:

  • Pharmaceutical Products: Products with therapeutic claims fall under different regulations. These products are subject to more stringent pharmaceutical regulations.
  • Medical Devices: Cosmetics that are also medical devices are subject to separate FDA regulations. This ensures that medical devices meet specific safety and efficacy standards.
  • Small-Scale Manufacturers: Facilities producing less than 100 units annually may be exempt from certain registration requirements. This exemption recognizes the unique challenges faced by small producers.
  • Professional-Use-Only Products: Products intended solely for professional use, like salon treatments, may have different regulatory pathways. These products are often subject to professional oversight, reducing the need for consumer-level regulations.
  • Research and Experimental Products: Products used solely for research or experimental purposes are not subject to the same stringent requirements. This exemption encourages innovation and scientific advancement.

Technological and Economic Implications

MoCRA is catalyzing technological advancement and economic transformation in the cosmetic industry:

  • AI-Powered Safety Assessment: AI-driven systems for evaluating ingredient safety. These systems can analyze vast amounts of data to predict potential health risks.
  • Blockchain Transparency: Blockchain-enabled supply chain transparency. This technology ensures that every step of the production process is traceable and verifiable.
  • Advanced Toxicological Screening: Enhanced methods for toxicological risk assessment. These methods provide more accurate predictions of ingredient safety.
  • Machine Learning Risk Prediction: Machine learning models for predicting potential health risks. These models can identify patterns and correlations not easily detected by traditional methods.

Conclusion

MoCRA represents a transformative shift in cosmetic regulation, prioritizing consumer safety, industry accountability, and transparency. By addressing historical regulatory gaps, MoCRA sets a new standard for cosmetic product safety, ensuring that consumers are protected from potential health risks while fostering innovation and economic growth within the industry.

Key Dates and Timelines

Provision Effective Date
Facility Registration and Product Listing December 29, 2023
Safety Substantiation and Adverse Event Reporting June 29, 2024
Full Implementation of MoCRA December 29, 2025

MoCRA Exemptions

Exemption Description
Pharmaceutical Products Products with therapeutic claims fall under different regulations.
Medical Devices Cosmetics that are also medical devices are subject to separate regulations.
Small-Scale Manufacturers Facilities producing less than 100 units annually may be exempt from certain registration requirements.
Professional-Use-Only Products Products intended solely for professional use may have different regulatory pathways.
Research and Experimental Products Products used solely for research or experimental purposes are not subject to the same stringent requirements.

Technological Advancements Driven by MoCRA

Technology Application
AI-Powered Safety Assessment AI-driven systems for evaluating ingredient safety.
Blockchain Transparency Blockchain-enabled supply chain transparency.
Advanced Toxicological Screening Enhanced methods for toxicological risk assessment.
Machine Learning Risk Prediction Machine learning models for predicting potential health risks.

References

  1. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2022). Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA). Official FDA Publication.
  2. Personal Care Products Council. (2023). Comprehensive Analysis of MoCRA Implementation Guidelines. Washington, DC.
  3. Congressional Research Service. (2023). Cosmetic Safety Regulation: Historical Context and Modern Challenges. Legislative Report.
  4. International Cosmetic Regulatory Journal. (2023). Global Perspectives on Cosmetic Safety Standards.

Additional Resources and External Links

Official Government Resources

Industry Compliance Portals

Professional Development

Research and Academic Resources

 

 

L’Oréal Bets on Synthetic Biology and Invests in China Biotechnology Firm

Takeaway:

Aspect Details
Company Overview L’Oréal: World’s largest cosmetics company founded in 1907. 2023 revenue: €41.18 billion (RMB 310.79 billion). Brands include Lancôme, Yves Saint Laurent, Kiehl’s, Maybelline, etc.
Investment Focus Synthetic Biology: Using biotechnology to produce eco-friendly, high-performance beauty ingredients. Focus on replacing traditional raw materials with bio-based alternatives to reduce environmental impact.
Key Sustainability Goals – 100% renewable energy and carbon neutrality by 2025.
– 95% of ingredients to come from renewable, bio-based sources by 2030.
Recent Strategic Investments Genomatica: Developed bio-fermentation technology to produce palm oil sustainably.
Debut: Synthetic biology firm for natural compounds like polyphenols, biopolymers, and pigments.
Shanhai Innovation: First investment in a Chinese biotech firm.
Partnerships Evonik & Abolis Biotechnologies: Collaborating on sustainable beauty ingredients using synthetic biology.
Shanhai Innovation: Chinese biotech company specializing in synthetic biology, partnering with L’Oréal for innovation.
Innovation in China Shanhai Innovation: A leading Chinese firm founded in 2017 by Professor Zhang Jiaheng, with over 100 global partnerships.
Synthetic Biology Impact Enables large-scale, cost-effective, and sustainable production of ingredients like hyaluronic acid, collagen, and ceramides, which are key to anti-aging and skincare markets.
Market Growth – The hyaluronic acid market in China reached ¥28.13 billion in 2023, expected to grow to ¥45.39 billion by 2028.
Future Outlook Synthetic biology is expected to be a major driver of innovation in the beauty industry, offering sustainable, efficient alternatives to traditional cosmetic ingredients.

 

L’Oréal, the world’s largest cosmetics company, is increasingly turning to synthetic biology as part of its strategy to develop sustainable beauty ingredients and stay ahead in an ever-competitive market. As consumer demand for eco-friendly and effective products continues to grow, L’Oréal has made significant moves, not only in biotech innovation but also by expanding its footprint in China’s growing synthetic biology sector.

Investing in a Sustainable Future

With a rich history dating back to 1907, L’Oréal has firmly established itself as a leader in the global beauty industry. In 2023, the company reported revenues of €41.18 billion (RMB 310.79 billion), underpinned by a portfolio of 37 prestigious brands, including Lancôme, Kiehl’s, and Maybelline. For years, L’Oréal has committed substantial resources to innovation, particularly in green science and biotechnology. In fact, over €1 billion is invested annually in research and development, with a growing emphasis on eco-friendly, bio-based solutions.

Through its ambitious sustainability program, L’Oréal for the Future, the company aims for 100% renewable energy use and carbon neutrality by 2025. By 2030, L’Oréal intends for 95% of the ingredients in its products to be derived from renewable, bio-based sources or produced through circular processes. This ambitious vision is at the heart of the company’s strategy to address environmental challenges while meeting the evolving needs of eco-conscious consumers.

Synthetic Biology: The Game-Changer for Beauty

Traditional beauty ingredients have long been sourced from plants, animals, and minerals, but this process can be inefficient, environmentally damaging, and costly. As an alternative, synthetic biology is gaining traction as a more sustainable and efficient way to create high-quality, bio-based ingredients. This revolutionary technology allows for the production of complex compounds through engineered microorganisms, offering a cleaner, faster, and more scalable solution compared to traditional extraction methods.

For L’Oréal, the potential of synthetic biology is huge. The company has already invested heavily in this emerging field, looking to replace traditional ingredients with bioengineered alternatives that are both sustainable and effective. Since 2022, L’Oréal has made nine investments in synthetic biology companies, signaling its commitment to advancing this new frontier in beauty science.

Strategic Partnerships and Investments

One of L’Oréal’s key investments is in Genomatica, a company that uses fermentation technology to produce palm oil, a critical ingredient in many cosmetic formulations, without the environmental cost of palm tree deforestation. Another strategic partnership was formed with Debut, a synthetic biology firm that is pioneering the production of high-performance natural compounds such as polyphenols, biopolymers, and natural pigments—ingredients that are prized for their antioxidant and anti-aging properties.

In a notable first, L’Oréal has also turned its attention to China, where it has made its first investment in a local biotechnology company: Shanhai Innovation. Founded in 2017 by Professor Zhang Jiaheng, this Chinese biotech firm specializes in synthetic biology and has already partnered with over 100 companies worldwide, including global giants like Procter & Gamble and Huaxi Bio. L’Oréal’s collaboration with Shanhai Innovation is a testament to the growing importance of Chinese biotech in the global beauty industry.

L’Oréal’s Growing Footprint in China’s Biotech Scene

The investment in Shanhai Innovation reflects L’Oréal’s growing interest in China’s rapidly expanding biotechnology sector. As the demand for sustainable, bio-based beauty ingredients rises globally, China has become an increasingly important hub for innovation in this space. L’Oréal’s strategic investment aims to strengthen its position in the region and leverage cutting-edge technologies being developed by Chinese companies.

Additionally, L’Oréal has partnered with its long-time supplier, Germany’s Evonik, to invest in Abolis Biotechnologies, a French company specializing in synthetic biology. This joint venture underscores L’Oréal’s global approach to synthetic biology, focusing on the development of sustainable ingredients that could redefine the future of beauty.

Date Company Collaboration Type Remarks
December 2022 Microphyt Minority Equity Investment Extracting natural ingredients for cosmetics from microalgae
March 2023 Genomatica Investment Developing palm oil using synthetic biology
June 2023 GS Caltex Corporation Investment Developing bio-based ingredients for cosmetics
August 2023 Blue Crystal Microbiology TELLE Collaboration Obtaining more natural green KEA cosmetic ingredients using biosynthesis
September 2023 Shanhai Innovation Investment Developing cosmetic raw materials using synthetic biology and supramolecular technology
December 2023 Lactobio Acquisition Research on skin probiotics and microbiota
April 2024 Sparxell Investment Providing sustainable plant pigment products for cosmetics and packaging
July 2024 Debut Biotechnology Investment/Collaboration Developing dozens of biological raw materials UREAU using cell-free fermentation
September 2024 Abolis Biotechnologies Investment Developing palm oil using synthetic biology

The Future of Beauty: Sustainability Powered by Synthetic Biology

As the beauty industry becomes more focused on sustainability, the raw materials used in products are becoming increasingly important. Synthetic biology offers the potential to reduce costs, improve efficiency, and decrease environmental impact — making it a crucial technology for the future of the industry. One of the most notable successes has been in the production of hyaluronic acid, a key skincare ingredient. Companies like Huaxi Bio in China are using synthetic biology to produce hyaluronic acid at a fraction of the cost, which is fueling a boom in hyaluronic acid-based products.

The global market for hyaluronic acid is expected to grow significantly, reaching ¥45.39 billion by 2028. As this trend continues, synthetic biology will be at the heart of the industry’s transformation, making it an essential area of investment for companies like L’Oréal that are committed to both innovation and sustainability.

In the words of Professor Chen Jian from the Chinese Academy of Engineering, “Synthetic biology is the fastest and most feasible technology to apply in the cosmetics industry.” With growing support from both industry and government, synthetic biology is poised to drive innovation in the beauty sector, offering more sustainable, effective solutions for consumers worldwide.

China Issued Toothpaste Supervision and Administration Regulations

The State Administration for Market Regulation of China issued the “Toothpaste Supervision and Administration Regulations” (Order No. 71 of the State Administration for Market Regulation), which will come into force on December 1, 2023.

Toothpaste is not only a daily consumer product, but also a product closely related to the health of the people. The newly revised “Toothpaste Supervision and Administration Regulations” clearly stipulates: “Toothpaste shall be managed with reference to the regulations on general cosmetics.”

In order to implement the “Regulations”, standardize toothpaste production and operation activities, strengthen toothpaste supervision and management, ensure the quality and safety of toothpaste, protect the health of consumers, and promote the healthy development of the toothpaste industry, the State Administration for Market Regulation and the State Food and Drug Administration insist on scientific legislation, democratic legislation, and Legislate according to law, and on the basis of extensively listening to opinions, in-depth research, and full demonstration, the “Measures for the Supervision and Administration of Toothpaste” (hereinafter referred to as “Measures”) have been formulated. There are 25 articles in the “Regulations”, which mainly include the following contents:

China’s Domestic Made Cosmetics are now exempted from testing for registration

Announcement on Matters Concerning Optimizing the Management Measures for Filing and Inspection of General Cosmetics (No. 13, 2023)

In order to further deepen the reform of “decentralization, management and service” and implement the main responsibility of the enterprise, according to the “Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulations”, and in accordance with the principle of risk management, the NMPA (National Medical Product Administration) has decided to further optimize the management of general cosmetics filing and inspection measure.

Methylrosaniline chloride is Deleted, Japan Partial Revision of the “List of hair dye additives”

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Japan has partially revised the ” List of Additives for Hair Dye ” (Pharmaceutical Evaluation Notification No. 0930 No. 3 dated September 30, 2021 by the Director of the Pharmaceutical Evaluation Division, Pharmaceutical Safety and Environmental Health Bureau, Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare ).

We have attached the “Hair Dye Additives List” below, please download accordingly. 

Record

Japan Partial Revision of the List of Additives for Quasi-drugs

The List of Additives for Quasi -drugs was partially revised by Japan Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare on Dec.23 2022. The Additives list (hereinafter referred to as “additives list”) is attached, please see below. 

Please keep this in mind and inform the related companies under your jurisdiction.

Record

1 In the additive list, serial number 1172 “Stearyldimethylamine”, serial number 2323 “Methylrosa “ Nirin chloride” was deleted.

10 states have now banned the sale of cosmetics tested on animals

By Tavleen Tarrant, CNN

New York became the tenth state to ban the sale of cosmetics tested on animals after Gov. Kathy Hochul signed a measure into law Thursday evening.

The law, known as the New York Cruelty-Free Cosmetics Act, prohibits the sale and manufacturing of cosmetics that have been tested on animals. It is slated to go into effect in January 2023.

The new legislation in New York follows similar action taken in Virginia, California, Louisiana, New Jersey, Maine, Hawaii, Nevada, Illinois and Maryland, according to the Humane Society of the United States.

“For decades, helpless animals have been subjected to cruel and painful experiments simply for the creation of cosmetic products,” said New York State Assemblymember Linda Rosenthal, who sponsored the measure, alongside Democratic state Senator Alessandra Biaggi.

e.l.f. Cosmetics Story in TikTok “What’s Next 2023 Trend Report”

On Dec. 15, TikTok released its ‘What’s Next’ report for 2023, which examines the main developments that TikTok is observing from a marketing perspective within the app’s larger spectrum of interaction. It is meant to help marketers figure out how customers’ wants and needs will change over the next year and how this will affect their strategy on and off TikTok.

In the Report, the US cosmetic Brand e.l.f. Cosmetics has been made a good example on the Actionable Entertainment trends section. It tapped into the power of actionable entertainment and commercials that seemed enjoyable, engaging, and unique to the TikTok community and captivated the community’s attention. e.l.f Cosmetics successfully boosted expenditure month over month and reduced acquisition expenses by 56% for their add-to-cart approach.

TikTok has divided its predicted marketing trends into three major trends:

  1. Actionable Entertainment
  2. Making Space for Joy
  3. Community-Built Ideals

Actionable Entertainment

SCCS opinion on Salicylic Acid

The SCCS issued a preliminary opinion on Salicylic Acid with the CAS number “69-72-7” on December 15, 2022. The deadline for comments is February 17, 2023.

Salicylic acid (CAS No. 69-72-7, EC No. 200-712-3) with the chemical name ‘benzoic acid, 2-hydroxy’ is used in cosmetic products with reported functions as a denaturant, hair and skin conditioning agent, exfoliant/keratolytic, anti-sebum agent, anti-dandruff/anti-seborrheic agent and a product preservative.

Estee Lauder Launched China’s Largest Innovation and Research and Development Center

On December 15, 2022, Shanghai Launched the Estee Lauder China Innovation R&D Center. The Estee Lauder Group, which entered the Chinese market around 30 years ago, is increasing its investment in research and development.

“The Estée Lauder Group first entered the Chinese mainland market about thirty years ago. It has continually enhanced its long-term commitment to the Chinese market, strengthened its R&D skills, upgraded its scientific research facilities, and nurtured scientific research talent.” The Estee Lauder Group’s executive chairman, William Lauder, said that in the future, the company would continue to establish a local talent team and educate a new generation of beauty scientists for China and the rest of the globe.

Estee Lauder established a research and development center in Shanghai in 2005. It was designated as the Group’s Asia-Pacific Research and Development Center in 2011. Upgraded China Innovation R&D Facility is the company’s first global R&D facility that combines research, ideation, insight, clinical, sensory, and performance assessment, formulation, packaging, and engineering. The personalized full-link innovation fully includes Estee Lauder’s brand business and supports the innovative luxury beauty brand matrix innovation.