Further Reading：Cannabidiol (CBD) Cosmetics in China: Regulation and Market Analysis
Hemp leaf or CBD cosmetics have become one of the most popular “emerging words” in the cosmetics industry. However, while companies and capital are eager for hemp cosmetics, Chinese consumers are barely talking about “hemp” related products and ideas since hemp is illegal in China. The huge contrast in the cannabis cosmetics market undoubtedly makes it the most unique type of cosmetics in China markets.
International cannabis control relaxation
On December 2, at the 63rd session of the Commission on Narcotic Drugs (CND) held in Vienna, CND passed theWorld Health Organization (WHO) Recommendation 5.1 with 27 votes in favor, 1 abstention, and 25 votes against. It shall delete cannabis and cannabis resin from table 4 of the Single Convention on Narcotics Drugs in 1961, and list it to Table 1.
This CND resolution means that the medical effect of cannabis has been recognized from the perspective of international law. However, it is worth noting that CND also rejected the remaining 5 recommendations in the WHO’s cannabis regulation recommendation letter. This shows that although the level of control of cannabis has been lowered, it does not mean “unleash”. It still belongs to the category of strong supervision system. Holding the bottom line firmly and developing under the scope of laws and regulations is the right way for the industrial hemp industry.
With the careful relaxation of relevant policies in some regions of the world and China, the prospects for the application of industrial hemp in the future are showing promise. Since 2010, Yunnan Province in China has issued relevant local regulations to legalize the cultivation and deep processing of industrial hemp. Subsequently, Heilongjiang followed up and issued the “Heilongjiang version” of industrial hemp-related regulations. On September 16, 2020, Kunming formally introduced the “8 articles of Hemps” to support the local industrial hemp industry.
While industrial hemp CBD skincare products are constantly being “justified”, more and more consumers realize that hemp leaf extract, a deep-processed product of industrial hemp, is a high-end skincare activity ingredient. However, as of now, cannabidiol CBD ingredients are not allowed to be used in China yet. Only limited hemp leaf extract cosmetics ingredients can be used in China cosmetics. The “ Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC 2015) ” was released by the China Food and Drug Administration (CFDA) clearly includes the following Cannabis ingredients.
Chinese Name INCI/English Name
大麻（CANNABIS SATIVA）仁果 CANNABIS SATIVA FRUIT
大麻（CANNABIS SATIVA）叶提取物 CANNABIS SATIVA LEAF EXTRACT
大麻（CANNABIS SATIVA）籽油 CANNABIS SATIVA SEED OIL
Domestic Professional Science Support
In fact, in the field of industrial hemp cosmetics CBD application research and the transformation of research results, there are also China domestic teams focused on this. As the earliest professional scientific research team of domestic cannabis cosmetics, from Guangzhou Zunyi Cosmetics Co., Ltd. has been involved in the research of cannabis cosmetics for more than three years, in order to help the public understand cannabis cosmetics comprehensively and dialectically, Guangzhou Zunyi has been unremittingly sharing the scientific concept of industrial hemp to the public. It already published articles such as:
- “The status quo of industrial hemp regulations and its development and application in cosmetics”
- “Epikutis Model Alternative Method Studying the Anti-inflammatory and Repairing Effects of Hemp Leaf Extract”
- “Preliminary Study on the Current Status and Development of the Hemp Cosmetics Market in ingredients concern consumers in China”
The Markets
Under the infection of the global virus pandemic, the skin sensitivity problem of “mask face” is attracting public attention. According to the data, 83% of consumers wear masks for too long and cause a series of skin problems. At the same time, “sensitive skin” has also become the focus of discussion among female consumers. According to the “Consensus of Experts on the Diagnosis and Treatment of Sensitive Skin in China”, the incidence of sensitive skin in Chinese women is about 36%. According to iResearch, over 60% of users of sensitive skin after paying attention to their own skin problems, they will insist on using anti-allergic skin care products during the cycle.
Wearing a mask for a long time, especially a mask with good sealing performance, will easily cause pressure on the facial skin, forming indentation, purpura, and even friction blisters. Besides, the local humid and hot environment under the mask can cause acne, allergies, enlarged pores, and facial skin. Skin problems such as uneven color patches are prominent, and people with sensitive skin even experience varying degrees of skin discomfort. This has become the most urgent problem that deeply plagues consumers.
As many studies and evidence shows Hemp CBD cosmetics can indeed solve the above problems through unique soothing and repairing, acne-removing, and anti-inflammatory effects, and become a “savior” for “mask face” and sensitive skin.
On the other hand, more and more major cosmetics brands in China are rapidly deploying functional skincare products, and many niche brands and cutting-edge brands are also opening up the market with functional skincare as their entry point. Numerous signs indicate that functional skincare is becoming another focus of the cosmetics market.
According to industry insiders, the output value of China’s hemp cosmetics will be about 1 billion RMB in 2020. With the continuous deepening of domestic hemp cosmetics science education and the rapid growth of the industry, professional consulting agencies estimate that the annual output value of domestic hemp cosmetics will reach 1.2 billion, 2 billion, and 3.5 billion RMB respectively in 2021-2023.
