The 163rd Expert Panel Meeting was published on December 8th, 2022 by CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review). The meeting agenda and announcements state that there have been two final safety assessment reports, one for fatty ethers, which includes eight components that are safe for use, and the other for ginger, which has nine compounds, eight of which are suitable for use and one of which has inadequate data. Four tentative safety assessment reports and four announcements of insufficient data are also been listed.
Reports can be downloaded directly at the bottom of the articles.
Within the tentative safety assessments report, It is worth noticing that Basic Yellow 87 is reported the function as a semi-permanent and oxidative hair dye in hair coloring products. Due to its sluggish skin absorption, lack of genotoxicity, and low reported amounts of usage, the panel evaluation from CIR determined that it is safe for use in hair color products.
However, it has been discovered in multiple instances that Basic Yellow 87 has been utilized in 4 non-coloring cosmetic products (non-coloring hair conditioner, shampoo, and other hair preparations).
Under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetics Act, color additives must be approved by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for their intended use before they can be used. As Basic Yellow 87 is an unauthorized color addition in cosmetics, such usage are prohibited.
Basic Yellow 87, on the other hand, reportedly also appears in an aerosol hair color spray. Data on the toxicity of this chemical when inhaled were not available. However, CIR believes that due to the minimal actual exposure in the breathing zone and the low concentrations at which the component is utilized, unintentional inhalation would not be a substantial route of exposure that can cause local respiratory or systemic effects.
The summary findings from CIR 163 conference are shown in the table below:
Ingredients | Derives | Findings |
Final Safety Assessments | ||
Fatty Ethers | Cetyl Dimethylbutyl Ether Dicaprylyl Ether Dicetyl Ether* Didecyl Ether* Diisononyl Ether* Dilauryl Ether* Dimyristyl Ether* Distearyl Ether | safe as used in the present practices of use |
Ginger | Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Extract Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Rhizome Extract Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Juice Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Oil Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Powder | 8 Non-sensitizing ginger-derived compounds are safe of use, insufficient data to issue a conclusion of safety for Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Leaf Cell Extract. . |
Tentative Safety Assessments | ||
Basic Yellow 87 | Basic Yellow 87 | Safe as a hair dye ingredient, can not be used as colorant in general cosmetics |
Mallow | Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower Extract Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower/Leaf Extract Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Leaf Extract Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Leaf Powder Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Oil | 8 Non-sensitizing malva sylvestris (mallow)-derived components are safe of use.
Final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each possibly containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. |
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate | Formulators should be aware of this potential and ensure that products containing this ingredient should be formulated to be non-irritating. | |
Phytosteryl Glutamates | Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate Phytosteryl/Behenyl/ Octyldodecyl/Isostearyl Lauroyl Glutamate Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate | Available data are insufficient to make a determination of safety |
Insufficient Data Announcement | ||
6-Amino-m-Cresol | Additional data needed to determine safety for this hair dye ingredient. | |
6-Amino-o-Cresol | Additional data needed to determine safety for this hair dye ingredient. | |
Olive | Hydrolyzed Olive Fruit Hydrolyzed Olive Fruit Extract Hydrolyzed Olive Leaf Extract Olea Europaea (Olive) Bark Extract Olea Europaea (Olive) Branch Extract Olea Europaea (Olive) Bud Extract Olea Europaea (Olive) Flower Extract Olea Europaea (Olive) Flower Water Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Juice Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Juice Extract Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Unsaponifiables Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Water Olea Europaea (Olive) Husk Powder Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Powder Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Water Olea Europaea (Olive) Sap Extract Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed Powder Olea Europaea (Olive) Wood Extract | Additional data needed to determine safety for this hair dye ingredient. |
Zanthoxylum piperitum | Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract Zanthoxylum Piperitum OilZanthoxylum Piperitum Peel ExtractZanthoxylum Piperitum Peel Water | Additional data needed to determine safety for this hair dye ingredient. |